Saturday, 25 February 2012

Colca Canyon, Nr. Arequipa, Peru

It hurt. 

The grin etched across my face in the first picture, was before our gruelling two day undertaking down the slope of the world’s deepest canyon, and then back up again.  For those of you who have been following our capers, you may recall an entry we wrote about painful-yet-rewarding  ‘W Trek’ in Chile.  Well this was similar; like a ‘mini-W’ (or 'V' if you like). 

Colca Canyon is a canyon of the Colca River in southern Peru. Peru's third most-visited tourist destination with about 160,000 visitors annually, it's located about 100 miles (160 kilometres) northwest of Arequipa. It is more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the United States at 13,650' (4,160 m.) depth, and it is promoted as the "world's deepest canyon," although the canyon's walls are not as vertical as those of the Grand Canyon. 

Along with our German friend Katarin , we woke at 3:00am to take a transfer to the canyon, which is famous for its Condors and Incan period terracing.  The mirador at the pinnacle of the canyon was a little disappointing, only because of the thin cloud cover which obscured any potential condor sightings.  Thankfully, these clouds soon dissipated and we were graced with fabulous views of the gorge as we began our descent.  It was an hour into this descent that Emma interestingly pointed out that steep descent can sometimes be as taxing on the body as the opposed ascent (especially on the knees).  7 hours later we found ourselves on the other side of Colca, at a lovely riverside oasis, complete with palm trees and small bamboo shack which, for one night, we would call our home.

The next morning meant another early start, although this time we were graced with an extra two hours in bed.  Nevertheless, at 05:00am, we began what would come to be, a watershed moment in Emma’s short hiking career. 

It was murder. 

8 kilometres walking straight up, ascending an extra 1500m over 3 hours.  As you can see below, the views were truly spectacular, as some of the Incan-period routes were still clearly visible.  This however, was no salve for the deep burn felt in every muscle, joint and crevice!  The altitude (an elevation of approximately 3200m) was also a major factor in making this 3 hour trek a real hard and harsh climb.  As we reached the top, Emma uttered the immortal words… ‘That’s it.  I’m done. That is my last hike ever – from hereon it’s high heels and dresses’ So ended the hiking chapter in Emma’s life…

Enjoy the pics guys and our next post will be about… Macchu Picchu!

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I had no idea what was coming

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The metaphor ‘strong as an ox’ should also be extedned to mules as well – they are the lifeblood of this canyon.

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The Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) an endangered species with the largest wing-span of any land bird -3.2m (the Albatross has a larger span but is classed as a marine bird)

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Now she's smiling! (N.B you can see in the bottom right, clear examples of Incan period terracing)

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HEY YO ADRIAN!

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We ate prickly pears for breakfast, the fruit of some of the canyon’s cacti, although the pictured species do not yield this particular fruit.

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A baby alpaca poses for soles.

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Peruvian finery.  The different designs are akin to the medieval coats of arms.

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A rather splendid eagle sits unhooded at his masters arms

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Emma is really starting to experiment with her camera – I love this pic.

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Night-night Arequipa.

Tuesday, 21 February 2012

Carnaval 2012

In Oruro, Bolivia, Carnaval is the most important cultural and historical celebration in the calendar.  The city swells with the influx of 3 million visitors and the accommodations are jam packed with Bolivians making this pilgrimage and only a few gringos. The annual parade is based upon the country’s age old folklore tales with over 50,000 dancers and musicians from each corner of the country performing with tight choreography and detailed handmade costumes – such a feast for the eyes and ears!  The parade begins with the dance of the devil and commemorates many Bolivian God’s including the virgin of the mines and honours Pachamama (Mother Earth).  The story unfolds during the day and tells of the fight between good over evil and begins at 7am.  The parade zigzags through the city streets, meaning that the traffic of Oruro grinds to a standstill.  After an exhausting eight hours the performers reach the end of their route, only to do it all again for the next two days! The music, masks and moves were truly amazing. 

Jack managed to nab the last two seats in a grandstand on Bolivar Street – health and safety would have had a shock with this ‘stand’ being held up by thin wire and the only way to get to your seat was up a rackety handmade ladder! But it was in the shade and under the obligatory blue tarpaulin, which shall forever remind me of Bolivia. Anyway, the entrepreneurial beer and food vendors were having a ball (and selling out instantly) while the crowed danced and cheered on the thrumming parade. 

Upon changing into our Carnaval regalia we decided to blag our way into the actual parade, jumping the barriers and joining the performers in their dances and songs. To our surprise, parts of the crowd were cheering us and shouting ‘Jack Sparrow!’ at Jack’s pirate outfit and even wanted photos with us! The police were manning the parade, ‘removing’ rogue revellers, but to our amazement they let us through some sections, mistakenly believing us to be authentic parade performers. What a crazy day! We managed to keep dancing and laughing even at an energy-sapping altitude of 3700m watching the grand finale of the parade at 2am, although the party continued well into sunrise.

Are you ready?

Feast your eyes on this for a party…

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Get your glad rags on…

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And lets PAAAARRRTY!

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